A different Thattukada

A different thattukada

Naveen Namboodiri

The thattukadas of God’s Own Country have gone hip. Or, the concept of thattukada – those roadside eateries that dot the backwaters of South Kerala – seems to have taken a new dimension in the metropolis. Originally known for its mouth-watering dosas and omelettes, the urban version of thattukada has gone one step forward, providing exotic stuff, cooked up from age-old recipes handed over down the generations, (learnt the hard way by daughters-in-law under the watchful eyes of hardnosed mothers-in-law), and now being tried out successfully by modern-day chefs (mothers-in-law please excuse). The Kuttanadan Thattukada at , 346, Hennur Main Road, Kalyanagar, is one such joint where one can enjoy a unique blend of Malayali cuisine — and get transported to the backwaters — and Italian food.

A traditional Kerala house, complete with majestic pillars, has been recreated at the restaurant. Standing tall right in the middle is a deepasthambam (a giant oil lamppost that is lit up in front of Kerala temples) and adorning the walls are murams (a common household item woven out of bamboo strips). Don’t waste your time and tummy space on starters. The main course has enough filling/fulfilling options. Kerala Parotta and Kozhi Varutharacha Curry (chicken masala in grated-and-fried coconut, a dash of cashewnut and kismis, sauté onions and tomato, garnished with violet cabbage) will make a good beginning. Have chicken if you must, but don’t miss out on seafood, for that’s what makes this thattukada special, advises chef Benny Mathew. You can either go for Kappa and Meen Curry (tapioca and fish curry). Kappa, also known as kollikizhangu, is a vegetable grown in the backyards of Malayali homes. Along with sardine curry, it makes a delicious and inexpensive combo, the staple diet of the poor and the delight of the nouveau riche. Most of the fish items are best had with rice (boiled). Check out the famous Meen Pollichatu. Pearl spot fish (marinated in sour lime and spices) baked in banana leaf, this is something to die for. The menu describes the Meen Mulagu Patticha Curry as fish cooked in red chilli sauce. Prod Mathew a little, and he is generous to elaborate: “This is seer fish in a sauce of kodambuli (a variety of tamarind), garlic and ginger sauted in coconut oil, added with turmeric powder, chilli powder and methi seeds.” The other fish items include Meen Molly (fish fried in coconut milk and spices, garnished with coriander curry leaves), Meen Mapas (fish sauted in spices and onions and cooked in coconut milk), and Meen Fry (fish marinated with herbs and spices and fried in oil). Talking about seafood, the restaurant also offers prawn varieties such as Chemmeen Curry (prawns marinated in spices and cooked in coconut milk), Chemmeen Curry Kuttanad (prawns marinated in spices and herbs and cooked in red chilli sauce) and Chemmeen Fry (marinated in soul lime and herbs and golden fried). The last one can also be had as a starter. “To maintain the look, we have not removed the shell of the shrimp. You may think it is a live prawn that’s been served,” the chef. You may also opt for crabs. There is Njandu Fry (crab steamed and filled with onions and red chillies), Njandu Roast (crab roasted in oven) and Njandu Curry (cooked in raw coconut sauce and spices). Not to mention of the Beef Kerala Fry and Beef Varutha Arachathu (curry). Veggies need not despair as there are some homely dishes like Aviyal (an assortment of vegetables), Toran, Pachadi Pulisseri and Teeyal. The Teeyal is a typical south Kerala dish, which has now become popular in North Kerala too. It can be made of ulli (onion), vendakka (ladies-finger) and pavakka (bitter-gourd) among other things. The Italian fare includes starters such as Cocktail Di Gamberi (prawn cocktail), Pastas like Tagliatelle or Spaghetti Bolognese (a choice of Tagliatelle with Bolognese sauce), seasonal specials like Cotoletta Di Polle (fillet of chicken breaded, fried, and served with French Fries) and Pollo All Arrabbiatta (pieces of chicken in tomato sauce with a hint of chilli; served with Tagliatelle or Spaghetti). For reservations, call 25432035/736/757.